Gujarat Travels in Jan, Jaipur Sketching in Feb 2024

 I like to write a review after a tour- helps me summarize for myself what I found, let's you have a little insight into our travels too.

Ahmedabad, it had been too long. We always stay at The House of MG  I think it is my favourite hotel anywhere and feels such a wonderful haven in busy Ahmedabad.

Interestingly they have just had a copy of the Constitution written on the front door- a much needed reminder at the moment in India.

Every vista in the hotel catches your eye. They have a staff member whose sole job is to look after the Flowers! What a job.

On tour I always learn new things about the places we visit- which keeps it fresh for me.

The warm welcomes and hospitality of people astounds me. We always visit the Gods at the start of an Indian trip if we can- a very local culture thing to do. We visited the Swami Narayan Temple in Ahmedabad and just happened upon a woman who visits each Sunday- she introduced us to the Nuns that live there and then took us to the dining hall as guests for lunch. So kind and made us all feel special.

Then we buzzed around the World Heritage listed Old City of Ahmedabad in tuktuks.

There is a wonderful Stepwell we always visit and a mosque next door I always enjoy a chat with the Iman. He is only a young fellow and attained the position not long before Covid. Welcoming and friendly, but times have changed- he looked harried and there were a group of youth who were being disrespectful - a very sad state of affairs India. 

Read the constitution guys, again you are not living up to it. Minorities are feeling nervous, like the world over for political gain politicians try and set up an us and them situation to divert attention from themselves.

The Stepwell is a magical place, fun to explore and take Bollywood style pictures.

And on we travelled, so good to catch up with many long term friends- people we met at craft events and later visited on our summer holidays in Kutch and now take a tour groups to.

Our group really worked hard at "helping the local economy" and through our group chat and still making their way through their stash back home. They have a wardrobe with many great memories attached.

It is fun to let your hair down somedays- as bus therapy we tied these fine cotton scarves I got from our Bengal weaver and when we visited the Ajrakh printers of the Khatri family Sufiyan very kindly dyed them for us in his Indigo Vat [ isn't it great having mates with indigo vats at the ready?]

And we decided to do a bit of a Bollywood photoshoot out in the White Desert. Fun times!

There was a guy out their with sparkly local costumes and everyone got dressed up and shimmied for more pictures- a real hoot.

This beautiful Madrasa on the way to the batik man I have tried poking through the crack many times to see what was inside- lo and behold the door opened this day and we were all invited inside.

This section is where pilgrims stay when visiting the mosque. So kindly welcomed inside and our curiosity quenched. 😊

Learnt something new at the Batik guy, Shaquil's place. When the cloth is washed it is always thrashed on a stone after- this thrashing actually straightens out the fabric and the edges sit flat. It does not need ironing after this. 

We are new to textiles in a way at our workshop- after natural dying Praveen washes in a washing machine and hangs it out to dry- the edges are always crinkly and have to be ironed before cutting- this is the traditional method to fix that.

Hmmm 

We have know Sujna Ben for years and taken workshops with her, always through Somaiya Kala Vidya,. She has taken their courses and really stepped up as an entrepreneur and is running classes from home. Fabulous to visit her, I can see how proud she is with her attainments.

We saw wild Asses on the salt flats of the Little Rann of Kutch and visited some of the salt harvesters. Everyone was touched at the challenge of their lives.

Danced in the evening at our Camp Site near the Little Rann.

The Sun Temple at Modhera is nearly 1000 years old, it is a place with a very warm and welcoming ambience. The sun always seems to be shining and it is saying come and visit. I know that sounds a bit fanciful but every time I go there I hear that.

We lived in a 1500 century Palace for a few days, chilled out, used the jeeps to visit the local sanctuary. You make a wish and put a terracotta horse under the tree.

Great place- so sad to see the government has decided to make it easier to access, and destroyed hundreds of horses as the move them and pave the area. Really what are they thinking?

Old Dadar, the gate keeper of the Fort /Palace loves to have his photo taken and he proudly escorted us around the village to explore all its nooks and crannies.

We had a great group of people to travel with-, some knew each other from previous trips others were newbies. I loved the way everyone folded in together and we felt like old mates very easily.

Thank you to the kind hearts of everyone.

One woman needed to sit up the front travelling, she was inclined to "help" the driver drive. I am usually pretty easy going with people BUT the one rule of the bus is always Let the Driver Drive, your help could actually be a big distraction.

I had to nudge once or twice then she said " ohh I do this at home" hmmm maybe it is not helpful and looking out the window and letting the driver drive is good for my anxiety and the drivers.

I got an email from her saying she has been on jaunts with her husband and he was smiling as he drove. It brought tears to me eyes. We can all have insights along the way- they help us in our life. It is good to recognise them. [ xx A good on you]

After Gujarat it was a quick flight up to Delhi to meet up with Leonie Norton and a group of sketchers and head to Jaipur.

I learnt a lot about Jaipur traffic- it is a pain to get around, patience is needed. Usually Jaipur is a place we buzz through for a few days and you don't notice it as much. 

For another sketch tour it has some great opportunities but it would be good to spend a night or 2 at a country palace along the way..... always things to refine when arranging tours.

We have all have challenges in life.

It is your attitude and reaction to such things that determines their impact on you and those around you.

My yoga teacher says- lift the edges of your lips UP- it really helps with everything.

People teach you things along the way.

Lovely places to visit and some wonderful work was made

We visited the Elephant Village- interesting conversation about domesticated elephants. I learnt Government decree is that their will be no breeding allowed, so the old girls you see will be the last domesticated elephants once they pass.

Our girl was Rani, she was happy to stand there and be fed by her mahout, his kids came over and tangled around her legs, she was not interested in us until a camera came out and she posed. 

We noticed that- and watched it happen Elephants are perpetual motion creatures but if you brought the camera up she would stop and kind of lift her face to you. Such a gorgeous girl - a delight to meet her.

Meet Rani- isn't she elegant in that pose?

Our palace in Jaipur

Lots of gentle interest in our sketchers- lovely way to meet locals.

There are lots of great places to sketch- look at that roof.

I knew we could not draw in the Taj, but thought I had found the perfect alternative. The sunset point across the river. Praveen and I did a reccy there in August, chatted the gate keeper and he was happy for me to sit and sketch at that time. BUT apparently in the crowds of peak season it is not allowed. 

Bit of a grrr moment but it was noice to be part of an excited crowd watching the light change and make photos for later use.

Ohh well, we tried.

The colours, and the sunsets all add up to a romantic place to sketch and wander.

Saying sunset made me think of Sunrise and a jaunt to the flower market- so beautiful Our gang made this Chai sellers morning- cheers everyone for a great memory.

soul searching...

Sounds a bit dramatic....

More like digging into what brings me joy and what can I do to spread joy.

I started this blog as I was leaving Australia end of January 2024. I was leaving on a jaunt that included two Indian tours, a research interlude and onto Vietnam. 

My question to myself was how to better utilise all my years of research, how to better support all my friends along the road with more visits?

What could I do to spread the research, spread the love and connections and give it a future not solely based on me?

Nothing wrong with me.

My passion to travel and share all the wonderful people and places I know is stronger and more focussed and more satisfying than it has been for a long, long time.

This is mostly because I can now make it my main focus, and do sensible things like spending heaps of time in my garden and hanging out with my grandkids as downtime.

Organising my tours to run smoothly and let me mostly cruise with my group does take a huge effort in the time I am at home to set it all up.

Garden and grandkids ground it out wonderfully.

So my question to myself, for a while, has been how can I replicate me on the road?
Really the paperwork side, lists, lists and details as mentioned on those lists can be picked up by a capable someone.
Some tours have a lot of me included in them, some tours I am a host, I add value to the trip but it is our Tutor who us the focus.

Hmmmm?

Interesting observation. 

With the right support and some experience and everything in place like it is already before I leave home, a special someone could fill the shoes of tour host, look after all the details that arise on the road and support a tutor to lead a travelling style workshop.

ZING!!! An idea that could work. Sounds simple but it took a lot of scratching my head to hit that jackpot and feel in my gut I had a winner idea.

Next to action it. 

How do you find someone who has experience with the ups and downs of travel, is resourceful, has the observation and people skills to look after a group. For the host, it looks like you cruise and often you do,  but group harmony is a delicate flower to be nurtured. It takes observation and kindness or ferociousness some days to let it blossom.

Gosh how to find the right person?

Lots would volunteer and whilst it sounds a dream opportunity it takes grit to make it all work and hopefully appear effortless.

A bit of a quandary....

I put it to the side a while, then it hit me as I was leaving Oz, my mate Megan was the person to ask.

I have known her since we shared an apartment block in 1980. 

She had worked in travel- at a desk, corporate, management and teaching at TAFE over the years, then went on to HR corporate stuff- I don't really grasp the perplexities of, if I am truthful😊. Seemed intense sometimes. 

If anyone would know where to look for my 'person extraordinaire' she would know where to look.

In my mind I wanted experience and a passion for travel- on the ground hoofing it type stuff, good with people and resourceful. She asked a whole heap of questions to help me classify the picture and give her a sense of who I was looking for.

Then

I got a note.  She would like to apply to be my new travel host.

Ohh wow. 

I have my person to work with me to be a Tour Host.

On to many new adventures at Creative Arts Safaris

Hanging out with mates in 2020

Megan in the 80's

I was her bride's maid!!

Got to Fly!

 A bit of a ramble below, but read through

Ideas to save on flights is in there!

I had dinner yesterday with mates that I have hung out with since 1980. It was such a buzz to meet them, then and a pleasure to know them now.

We are not in our day-to-day lives anymore, yet through catch ups every so often we are still in each others lives, and it is great.

So many layers have been peeled off over the years, it is a safe place to talk about any and everything.... and then talk crazy and laugh our heads off.

I am truly lucky.

Two of my mates, who never seem to do social media, got right into coming with me as I explored Uzbekistan. So I got to oooh and ahh over what a stunning place it is. 😍

A question that I was asked, they want to come join me in April, was how to get there?

That question is a good one, it got me thinking.

I lived in India for years, many things can be a challenge there but flying somewhere was easy.

So many choices of airlines, and really, most places are far closer than when you live in Oz.

Now I live in Australia, it is a long way to fly anywhere, choices of flights seem much more limited AND often the price is a headache.

It was only when they asked how to get there that I realised there is a bit of a trick to it that others might like to know, too.

Takes a bit of searching but good to know.

It is what I generally do, so I had not thought much about it.

I first look on search engines Expedia and Booking.com.

If prices seem fine, I don't make much more effort.

This year though has seen me popping off here and there, and trying to get good flights is a pain.

I wanted to go Sydney- India for 3 days- Ghana[for tour]- Uzbekistan [for a walk through]- India for a week and home to Australia.

Try that in a search engine!! OMG they wanted the shirt off your back.

Looked up Sydney- Ghana-Sydney still a shocker.

Then I looked at Sydney- Delhi return- easy and very reasonable price [long stop over Singapore on return leg]

Fly Delhi- Ghana- OK

Ghana- Uzbekistan with a 12 hr stop over in Istanbul and then onto Delhi.

Worked out cheaper to book ALL these component flights than the first Sydney- Ghana-Sydney ticket quote.

AND

the long stop overs in Istanbul and Singapore are sweet. If you are on Turkish Airlines they will take you on a free trip into town, feed you and sightsee. Anytime you can visit the Hagia Sophia is a good day.

Singapore offers visa free days if you have an onward ticket- trundle through the exit and onto a train [use credit card to swipe a ticket- no fiddling] and have a little adventure. 

Since then I did a bit of a search for Sydney to Uzbekistan tickets- very interesting.

First search on Expedia, and Booking.com was similar. Around Au$3000

Then [I am using the apps on my phone] I broke the journey down Sydney -Delhi return AND Delhi-Tashkent return. Price came in around Au$2000 on both search engines.

A stop over in Delhi is fine- I have people to visit and the sightseeing is great.

eVisa needed- all online and US$25. 

---Red Fort is the place to go for a day trip- great old monument, wonderful galleries and Craft Centre opened in the old barracks- it is really becoming a great place to visit.

Curious I took a look at Skyscanner

Prices came in around best I could find as a combo.

Skyscanner only compares prices then directs you to sites that do flight bookings.

To be thorough I looked up Kayak.com too [I don't like them, when I have looked at them in the past I seemed to get fiddled around]

 

The really interesting thing is

I can back to Expedia & Booking.com on my phone this morning

Expedia still same price BUT booking.com offered this option

Look at the price. It was not their offer yesterday. 

This makes me feel like BIG BROTHER is watching my phone activity- play creepy music- seriously!

but for once it seems in my favour.

Notice the latest off has SELF Transfer

What does that mean?

I like that, when I organize flights to connect up on a journey I usually allow a day or two at the transfer point so I don't need to worry about late arrivals.....

This says the booking service wants to make sure you connect. Sounds Good to me.

ALWAYS have comprehensive travel insurance, as well.

The Hagia Sophia is a stunning space, the true gift of this visit was the feeling in the space. So many people of all persuasions in the one place with their hearts singing to be there.

So beautiful.

May you year be blessed with that feeling of love and connection

There are so many great museums in Romania

I do love these two- perhaps little ever changes? 

They feel so modern and fresh and yet have been sitting around since 5000 to 4600 BC

Romania is a land rich in museums, now that might lead you to surmise traditional culture is becoming all dusty and tucked away in them.

Not happening in Romania, the textile culture is vibrant and growing based on traditional pieces.

There are various museum, some have huge collections of built- structures houses and barns and such displayed like a village.

Apparently they are traditional houses relocated to the museum and rebuilt by hands local to their home area. 

You could just imagine the owners have just stepped out for the day.

Many are gorgeous and quaint but I am sure a challenge to live in, in the modern world.  Looked after in a museum the building survives even if it doesn't still burn a home fire. 

These house are full of the furniture and textiles that were local to their areas.

Romania has long snowy winters, time spent inside lead to the development of a rich material culture. Delicious textiles, intricately painted surfaces and fine wood work.

Other museums have great collections of local costumes. Displayed on models, you can't touch but you can carefully get up close enough to see the gorgeous handwork. Swoon.

My hardest task was deciding which locations we would visit.... so much to love, so little time basically.

Here are just a few highlights of many, haha

Cluj-Napoca Ethnographic Museum might just be my favourite- it was hard to tell I almost swooned from overload. You can only sigh and so "Ohhhh" so many times before you become lightheaded.

You were not allowed to touch but you could get up very close to see the details- wonderful recourse of stitch.

These are all regional variations of Traditional Costume, there was also some stunning Hungarian Written Thread work - A large part of Transylvania, now Romania was once Hungary and there are a lot of cultural traditions still here.

Metallic inserts amongst silk stitch

Angel shirt? If I had had my wits about me I could have used Google Translate to read the info sheet- Oh well, next time.

How to assemble a blouse

The detail

The Apron

and then there was more!

Samples of weaving and garments found at Barsana Monastery.

Barsana Monastery dates back to 1390, the oldest church here was built in 1711 and until recently was the tallest wooden church in the world.

And

Found second hand at a local market- I have the vendors number and she is happy to do a private showing for us.- Dangerous, I'd say :)

There has been big news since I was last in Romania

from UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage site

Inscribed in 2022 (17.COM) on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity

© Video Art Studio, 2021/Ghenadie Popescu 2020

The art of the traditional blouse with embroidery on the shoulder (called altiță) is an essential part of Romanian and Moldovan folk dress for men and women. It juxtaposes a simple cut with rich and colourful ornamentations that are stitched using complex sewing techniques. The blouses are white and made of natural fibres (flax, cotton, hemp or floss silk), and the complex stitch combines horizontal, vertical and diagonal seams that result in a specific pattern and texture. The styles and techniques vary according to the region and the wearer’s age, as well as to the skills of the women who create the blouses. The motifs and ornamentation are also varied: from geometric and stylised registers to organic shapes, and from sombre to vivid colours. Traditional blouses with altiță are made entirely by hand, and recent attempts to mechanize certain steps and to simplify the ornamentation and techniques constitute deviations from tradition. The craftsmanship is exclusively female and generally passed on within families, although some organizations, museums and schools organize camps and courses. Today, interest in creating these blouses is steadily increasing, with the practice viewed as a means of relaxation and of affirming one’s national identity and maintaining visible ties to the past.

Download© Valeru Ciurea, 2018

A lot of effort and research would have gone into this submission over many years.

Keeping an eye on the internet as I do, I have found a lot more images and chats of stitching traditional blouses, classes to make blouses, meetings and societies celebrating the blouse than were apparent  5 years ago when I started closely researching Romania.

I like this article that describes the value of the blouse to Intangible Heritage- it was not just an article of clothing but a history passed through women's hands, it was time spent sitting in groups to stitch so much more than just a garment.

To gain a UNESCO Listing you don't have to just prove the value of the tangible or intangible item you also have to have a plan for how you will look after it.

I know in Ahmedabad to get The Old City on the register took years of meetings and workshops to work with the residents of the Old City to build pride in their old homes: education and funds in how you might improve the comfort of your home whilst retaining its valuable historical aspects. 

so many levels of planning from the grassroots up to erudite documentation and applications

You need to have a community on side and VERY supportive. This is regularly inspected by the UNESCO committees to see if is being upheld and true.

How do you protect something as intangible as a blouse? the true one must be handstitched?

Either you spend a lot of time to make your own or you spend a lot of money to buy a handstitched blouse.

There would be 'clever' people who would like to make them by machine and sell at a lower price point- can you see where this might spiral out of control? It could become a nightmare to protect the integrity of the true Romanian Blouse. This article talks of some of the problems they now face.

And there was recently a wonderful exhibition - I think the name in translation is "I sew for a Cause" 

The Romanian Blouse and traditions of stitch were used as a canvas to express concerns about valuing the environment and traditions. My friendly blouse teacher Anca kindly sent me these photos.

So beautiful.

I look forward to learning and seeing so much more next trip 😄